DAY 87, MY FINAL DAY

My day begins at 6:47am Tokyo time, and I'm anxious thinking about all that I will miss. I'm realizing how accustom I've grown to the daily adventures here and the questions that occupy my every move-
what did I just order?
Will this entree be served with an egg atop? Will said egg, be raw or partly cooked?
What did I just eat?
Which tea will I select from the 30 vending machines I pass on my walk to the metro?
Is the tea I select actually the black, Oolong or green type I assume them to be?
How many conversations (used loosely...very loosely) will I have today with a local who still believes I can understand them?
Will I understand them... maybe just a word?

What will it feel like...
To wake up and not be allergy ridden and struggling for breath for the first 2 hours of my day?
To return to a home sans-water bugs and oversized mocking crows?
To inevitably lose my new-found creative ability to develop plots with the disappearance of my favorite Japanese talk shows?

How will I feel...
When the toilets no longer have remote controls and sing to me?
When my sweat cloth no longer needs to be my wardrobe staple?
When I no longer have to ponder over whether my trash is combustible?
When the people behind the counters no longer smile or care that I'm there?
When I'm no longer asked "do you want chopsticks with that" (at least that's what I assume they ask when a long sentence followed by "ka" is asked and my response of "hai" suddenly leads to the appearance of chopsticks in my bag)?
When heading off to sing karaoke in a private room for 8 hours is not longer an option?
When I no need to weed through the triple and double extra smalls to pursue the elusive medium in stores?

How will it feel...
To not hear "Co-ta-nee" yelled across the street from my favorite friend Tetsuya followed by a bow, and I'm no longer able to greet my favorite "Manatee" on Friday and Saturday nights as I wander down for some 500 Yen drinks, mochi and squid?
When I'm no longer blasted with sarcasm from my student Takaaki?
When my Mondays and Wednesdays no longer entail language class with Yamaguchi-san and giggling like school children with my favorite classmate Anh?

How will I feel...
To no longer be aware of my own presence?
When I'm no longer surprising people by my appearance on their trains, in streets, shops and restaurants?
When I'm no longer stopped on the street by someone who just wants to look at you, squeeze you to verify existence and smile at you for a second?

I'm not certain these questions require answers. I am certain that these are questions I never would've known to ask without this opportunity. This is it. I will incredibly, unquestionably miss the challenge and rewards of this Tokyo life, of my Japan in three.

Picture courtesy of Manatee, the 500 Yen Bar

THE ARRIVAL OF DICKY K (and much more)

Today I leave for another week of Japan travel with my father (aka Dicky K), who is in town from Lake Tahoe. He's spent 3 days in Tokyo checking out my favorite wards, favorite shops, restaurants, shrines, parks, gardens and even a boat cruise highlighting Tokyo architecture. We also caught our first Japanese baseball game in Yokohama- Tokyo Swallows versus Yokohama Bay Breeze (Swallows won by a landslide, but the cheering and hotdogs on sticks made it all worthwhile). Now it's time to explore uncharted territories for the both of us, which will mean many hours on Shinkensen trains and nights in various hostels around Japan.

First stop, Hiroshima where we'll spend one night and take in various peace gardens and museums. Then onto Nagasaki, a city often unvisited by foreigners, but what is commonly referred to a "hidden gem" for those who have spent time. We'll spend 3 nights at a hostel there before carrying onto Kyoto.

The Geisha picture in this entry was from my last visit to Kyoto, and I look forward to introducing fellow travelers to the red light district, my favorite temples and shrines, and to again view the city by bike. We have three nights there, and a day trip planned to Nara to pet deer (I'm told they're as domestic as dogs), and check-out the largest Buddha statue in Japan.

Our trip will end at Mt Fuji on Sunday, where we'll begin our big climb. The goal is the reach summit by sunrise. Many pictures to come as my final two weeks in Japan continue.

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN...

THE GREAT TOKYO ESCAPE

It's been a month full of visitors and travel, and it's beginning to dawn on me that my time in Japan is all too quickly coming to a close. James and Erin left last week, Nate and Roz leave tomorrow and Dicky K (aka: my dad) arrives next week to help wrap-up the single most fabulous experience of my life.







Spending time in the vast areas outside of Tokyo has made this month truly amazing. The trip began with time in the small mountain town of Takayama: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takayama,_Gifu where we were given a welcome relief from both the heat and hustle of Tokyo.
Then it was time for the culture of Osaka, a city completely rebuilt post WWII destruction, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osaka.
Finally, a chance to take in the history and tastefully modern neighborhoods of Kyoto by bike: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kyoto. I fell in love with Kyoto, the perfect Tokyo escape with quaint alleyways full of boutiques, restaurants, bars and local flavor including Geisha sightings and taps on the shoulder from locals who just wanted to smile and welcome you. Links below will take you through some of the extensive photos from these recent trips. Next week comes pictures from Fuji, Hiroshima, Nara and much more!

Visitors: Nate and Roz from NYC
Destinations: Tokyo, Takayama, Osaka, Kyoto
A taste in pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/CannaKendall/TakayamaMarketsTemplesOsakaCastleKyotoCharm

Visitors: Erin (San Francisco) & James (Hawaii)
Destinations: Tokyo, Kyoto & Fuji
A taste in pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/CannaKendall/FishMarket

I will never forget a 5am outing to the Tsukiji Fish market, the largest in the world with Erin and James. It is here where 1 billion + yen is exchanged daily through various fish auctions and market purchases. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsukiji_fish_market
Tuna bigger than the average Japanese person, sea creatures I've never seen before (let alone put to my lips), and the best sushi I've ever had for breakfast at 5:30am complete with Kirin beer.

Japan is great, but sharing it with those I love has made this experience complete.

IDENTITY STRIP

This past Saturday evening, I was asked to participate in a forum with select Japanese English students at my language school. The topic surrounded cultural differences (with this Kendall representing the obvious difference as the only non-Japanese participant). Specifically, we were asked to explore the opposing Japanese cultural fundamentals known as "Honne" (one's true self) and "Tatemae" (the socially acceptable self), defined in full below.

After two hours of questions and an uncharacteristically candid conversation, I was surprised to learn that the expectation to present a masked self to the world is actually a relieving choice for the students of Japan and seemingly this society as a whole. The idea of facing unnecessary judgment and/or igniting confrontation is easily sidestepped by falling in line behaviorally within the comfort of an already homogeneous society.

But, what is a welcomed blessing to the Japanese is this American's worse nightmare... the loss of self-expression. The idea of not wanting to represent yourself in both public and personal settings leaves me more lost than found. Additionally, I wonder how Japan has achieved its worldly stature by willfully following? Consider that Japan is arguably (although no one would dare argue it here) the most efficient society in the world. How does this continued greatness emerge within a culture of relative meekness? I'm fascinated.

More immediately however, I'm left feeling a bit uneasy as I go about my days. I continue to observe the passersby, but I no longer wholly trust or read them as truth. My comments on observed behavior- the shyness, happiness, even the perceived compatibility may have been a mere front. But, as I slow in my skepticism and become wary of representing myself as myself, it's evident that the Japanese are moving along just fine, perfectly content peacefully playing within their masquerade.

Honne (本音): refers to a person's true feelings and desires. These may be contrary to what is expected by society or is required according to one's position and circumstance, and they are often kept hidden, except with one's closest of friends.
Tatame(建前): literally "facade", is the behavior and opinions one displays in public. Tatamae is what is expected by society and required according to one's position and circumstances, and these may not match one's honne.

Internet Stoppage, Travel, Networking and Dead Batteries

After a short break the good news is Tokyo is still fantastic, better than ever.
...I wish I could say the same for our internet connection, which as of late has been inconsistent at best. I never thought I'd rely so heavily on one medium to feel connected, and never expected I'd feel so much more distant with its disappearance.

Aside from internet trials, camera issues and a handful of bike problems (breathe), I've started teaching English lessons twice a week. I've also met some very interesting people including a Translator at the Embassy of Kuwait, the Co-founder (and former GE employee) of a Tokyo Environmental Organization, www.greenz.jp and also an Oscar nominated Producer who is currently editing his next work "Happiness", happinessfilm.com while also working on various other heartfelt projects (comics, anime, you name it) surrounding human rights. I join his team next week as a Language Adviser.

Please check out the links to learn more about these compassionate individuals who are making a difference in the lives of many, and for ways to get involved yourself!

Other happenings, I've laid on my first Japanese beach, discovered a taste of Chicago in Harajuku, experienced my first Tokyo tremor, enjoyed red bean and rice chunk soy ice cream, ate my first unknown substance within a sushi roll (horrid, awful, can still taste the unidentifiable goo), fell in love with pumpkin tempura, successfully navigated Shinjuku Eki (station) and continue to enjoy my Japanese lessons, the people I'm meeting and various other adventures.

Stay tuned... more to come when internet is back up and camera batteries have been replaced!

A Week of Meals (meets Elvis)- The not so glamorous mid section

I admit, the meals of the last day or two haven't been much to write about. Just some homemade soba noodles, scones, and various other makeshift meals. However, there's still much to share about the food of Japan. One of my biggest food surprises (aside from squid on sticks) was the royal treatment given to fruit here. A melon gift purchased for over $100? Welcome to Japan.
http://www.iht.com/articles/2005/11/28/features/rluxfruit.php

More often than not fruits come wrapped individually in a sort of foam netting, which is expected to keep each piece perfect, clear of all blemishes. The fruit is also incredibly large; an average size apple here is about 3-4 times that of the standard American apple. And, this apple will cost you somewhere between $5.00-7.00 a piece. Cherries are quite a treat in Japan, try a small bag for $6.00 if you can afford it. It's only through a recent gift that I was able to sample such a delicacy here at all (thanks Eiko).

After enjoying the gifted cherries and the peaches I splurged on yesterday (at $1 each, but normally closer to $3-$4), I can easily say that Japanese fruit is like no other fruit this American has ever tasted. It's so much sweeter, fresher and incredibly juicy. Lucky you if you can afford it, but I miss my $2 bag full of Granny Smith apples.

And with that...
Breakfast:
Peach Season means $3 peaches are now $1 peaches. This little guy was the juiciest peach of my life- even if this one is normal size
100 Yen (usually about 300 Yen, or $3 each)

Lunch:
A cabbage, carrot, corn and edamame salad picked up at the local Organic Lawson nearby, 350 Yen
Cold Tofu, 89 Yen from the local grocery.

Dinner:
A meal shake (hey, it's the price you pay when you want to indulge in a couple of peaches and enjoy a new culture for a few months).

And, for a glimpse into the Tokyo Rockabilly scene ever-present here, especially in parks on weekends, check-out the video below. You won't regret it!

A Week of Meals- Day Two

Today is Saturday, which means a brunch adventure. The chosen destination, Caippuccino, a small Italian cafe I'd read about online which features various buckwheat pancakes, including selections with shrimp and avocado, various cheeses and nuts, honey, etc. An example of the Lunch Menu is featured to the left, unfortunately, as is often the case, specials (and usually full menus are in Japanese only)








Set Brunch #1, 24,000 Yen (for two):
Iced coffee (or hot tea)

Buckwheat pancakes + bananas, cream and caramel

And, for me:
Buckwheat pancakes (non-sweet) plus honey (a bit sweet)

Shared: Celery/Cucumber soup

Eyed: "New York Style Cupcakes", price not listed

Dinner: Skipped, due to lingering brunch food baby

Snacks:

Two Coronas sipped in a make-shift outdoor cafe (drinking in public- whether it be while walking down the street, sitting on a curb, riding on the train is legal here), 500 Yen each.


Edamame: Free with the Corona purchase


Guinness & Kilkenny Pints at one of our local Irish Pubs, 800 Yen each (a steal considering all of the other bars found serve half pints for 900 Yen). And, for a late night snack, chips and guacamole (which tasted more like doritos with guacamole- what you get when you not only order chips and guac in Tokyo, but especially when ordering such Mexican fare at an Irish bar in Tokyo), 400 Yen.

A Week of Meals- The Beginning

Follow me as I enjoy (and less than enjoy) breakfasts, lunches and dinners in various locations within Tokyo for one week. A great way to get a glimpse of the culture, and to witness portion options and prices.
To keep an eye on my non-food related adventures, just keep clicking on my ever changing slide show chalked full of recent journey photos, finds and festivals.
Breakfast at home:
Cold tofu drizzled with sesame oil and scallions

Prices from yesterday's grocery trip:
88 Yen (store bought tofu)
99 Yen (scallions)
125 Yen (dressing)


Lunch:
"Set Lunch menu" Roppongi soba noodle restaurant,
1050 Yen & featuring:

-Soba noodles: a traditional buckwheat noodle served hot or cold, usually depending on the season (cold today, because it was HOT outside). Served with a dipping sauce of soy sauce, white radish and wasabi. Proper eating method: grab a chopstick full of noodles, dunk them, and slurp them up (literally, slurping is a sign that you like something here, a compliment to the chef, not at all ill- mannered).

-Sweet potato, jalapeno and shrimp tempura (top left)

-Pickled cucumber and white radish (next to soba dipping sauce)

-Octopus and cabbage mixed in a mayonnaise-type sauce (second photo, bottom right photo)

-Small bowl of sticky white rice garnished with sesame seeds, scallions and strips of a hot red pepper I can't put my finger on yet (caught in top photo, far right)

Dinner:
Although I failed to take my camera (hey this blog commitment takes some getting used to), I can still share the details:
Darjeeling Indian Restaurant, Yoyogi-Uehera (about a mile from the apartment), 1,000 Yen

-Kirin Tanrei Beer "Brewed for Good Times" (550 Yen- a total rip off)
-Salad + Naan (450 Yen)

I've also had the vegetable curry here and the saffron rice, but wasn't hungry tonight after my monstrous lunch.

Additional Note: Japan is known for exceptional Indian food and also "the best Italian food outside of Rome". Both have a Japanese twist to the traditional, but now I also recognize the American twists to these cuisines. More to come as I sample other various foods and show you first hand...

Random Cuteness from the local Tanabata Festival

http://gojapan.about.com/cs/japanesefestivals/a/tanabata.htm

The fair was complete with petting zoo (chicks, goats, pony, guinea pigs), shooting carnival games, various ways to win goldfish (who knew winning a bag of goldfish was an international joy) snow cones, plenty of meat on sticks (including octopus), corn on the cob, sweet potatoes, beer, drums and a whole lot of heat and humidity.

PLAY ME (drum video below)

Courtney Desu

It's so interesting to be the minority, the clear minority in a huge city thought to be over 10 million dense.

As the obvious outcast, I initially braced for varying impacts. I now feel foolish and saddened to have felt the need to brace at all. In a city where I expected to be a stand alone, it's been so easy for me to forget that I'm the one who sticks out. There's been no disrespect, I've never felt fearful, alone. There has been only warm fascination and sense of eagerness, or, at the very worst, harmless indifference.

This is why it's important to see the world, perspective.