Japan in Three

DAY 87, MY FINAL DAY

2008-09-14T06:50:00.008+09:00

My day begins at 6:47am Tokyo time, and I'm anxious thinking about all that I will miss. I'm realizing how accustom I've grown to the daily adventures here and the questions that occupy my every move-
what did I just order?
Will this entree be served with an egg atop? Will said egg, be raw or partly cooked?
What did I just eat?
Which tea will I select from the 30 vending machines I pass on my walk to the metro?
Is the tea I select actually the black, Oolong or green type I assume them to be?
How many conversations (used loosely...very loosely) will I have today with a local who still believes I can understand them?
Will I understand them... maybe just a word?

What will it feel like...
To wake up and not be allergy ridden and struggling for breath for the first 2 hours of my day?
To return to a home sans-water bugs and oversized mocking crows?
To inevitably lose my new-found creative ability to develop plots with the disappearance of my favorite Japanese talk shows?

How will I feel...
When the toilets no longer have remote controls and sing to me?
When my sweat cloth no longer needs to be my wardrobe staple?
When I no longer have to ponder over whether my trash is combustible?
When the people behind the counters no longer smile or care that I'm there?
When I'm no longer asked "do you want chopsticks with that" (at least that's what I assume they ask when a long sentence followed by "ka" is asked and my response of "hai" suddenly leads to the appearance of chopsticks in my bag)?
When heading off to sing karaoke in a private room for 8 hours is not longer an option?
When I no need to weed through the triple and double extra smalls to pursue the elusive medium in stores?

How will it feel...
To not hear "Co-ta-nee" yelled across the street from my favorite friend Tetsuya followed by a bow, and I'm no longer able to greet my favorite "Manatee" on Friday and Saturday nights as I wander down for some 500 Yen drinks, mochi and squid?
When I'm no longer blasted with sarcasm from my student Takaaki?
When my Mondays and Wednesdays no longer entail language class with Yamaguchi-san and giggling like school children with my favorite classmate Anh?

How will I feel...
To no longer be aware of my own presence?
When I'm no longer surprising people by my appearance on their trains, in streets, shops and restaurants?
When I'm no longer stopped on the street by someone who just wants to look at you, squeeze you to verify existence and smile at you for a second?

I'm not certain these questions require answers. I am certain that these are questions I never would've known to ask without this opportunity. This is it. I will incredibly, unquestionably miss the challenge and rewards of this Tokyo life, of my Japan in three.

Picture courtesy of Manatee, the 500 Yen Bar

THE ARRIVAL OF DICKY K (and much more)

2008-09-02T14:59:00.007+09:00

Today I leave for another week of Japan travel with my father (aka Dicky K), who is in town from Lake Tahoe. He's spent 3 days in Tokyo checking out my favorite wards, favorite shops, restaurants, shrines, parks, gardens and even a boat cruise highlighting Tokyo architecture. We also caught our first Japanese baseball game in Yokohama- Tokyo Swallows versus Yokohama Bay Breeze (Swallows won by a landslide, but the cheering and hotdogs on sticks made it all worthwhile). Now it's time to explore uncharted territories for the both of us, which will mean many hours on Shinkensen trains and nights in various hostels around Japan.

First stop, Hiroshima where we'll spend one night and take in various peace gardens and museums. Then onto Nagasaki, a city often unvisited by foreigners, but what is commonly referred to a "hidden gem" for those who have spent time. We'll spend 3 nights at a hostel there before carrying onto Kyoto.

The Geisha picture in this entry was from my last visit to Kyoto, and I look forward to introducing fellow travelers to the red light district, my favorite temples and shrines, and to again view the city by bike. We have three nights there, and a day trip planned to Nara to pet deer (I'm told they're as domestic as dogs), and check-out the largest Buddha statue in Japan.

Our trip will end at Mt Fuji on Sunday, where we'll begin our big climb. The goal is the reach summit by sunrise. Many pictures to come as my final two weeks in Japan continue.

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN...

THE GREAT TOKYO ESCAPE

2008-08-22T16:05:00.010+09:00

It's been a month full of visitors and travel, and it's beginning to dawn on me that my time in Japan is all too quickly coming to a close. James and Erin left last week, Nate and Roz leave tomorrow and Dicky K (aka: my dad) arrives next week to help wrap-up the single most fabulous experience of my life.

Spending time in the vast areas outside of Tokyo has made this month truly amazing. The trip began with time in the small mountain town of Takayama: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takayama,_Gifu where we were given a welcome relief from both the heat and hustle of Tokyo.
Then it was time for the culture of Osaka, a city completely rebuilt post WWII destruction, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osaka.
Finally, a chance to take in the history and tastefully modern neighborhoods of Kyoto by bike: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kyoto. I fell in love with Kyoto, the perfect Tokyo escape with quaint alleyways full of boutiques, restaurants, bars and local flavor including Geisha sightings and taps on the shoulder from locals who just wanted to smile and welcome you. Links below will take you through some of the extensive photos from these recent trips. Next week comes pictures from Fuji, Hiroshima, Nara and much more!

Visitors: Nate and Roz from NYC
Destinations: Tokyo, Takayama, Osaka, Kyoto
A taste in pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/CannaKendall/TakayamaMarketsTemplesOsakaCastleKyotoCharm

Visitors: Erin (San Francisco) & James (Hawaii)
Destinations: Tokyo, Kyoto & Fuji
A taste in pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/CannaKendall/FishMarket

I will never forget a 5am outing to the Tsukiji Fish market, the largest in the world with Erin and James. It is here where 1 billion + yen is exchanged daily through various fish auctions and market purchases. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsukiji_fish_market
Tuna bigger than the average Japanese person, sea creatures I've never seen before (let alone put to my lips), and the best sushi I've ever had for breakfast at 5:30am complete with Kirin beer.

Japan is great, but sharing it with those I love has made this experience complete.

IDENTITY STRIP

2008-07-27T22:21:00.016+09:00

This past Saturday evening, I was asked to participate in a forum with select Japanese English students at my language school. The topic surrounded cultural differences (with this Kendall representing the obvious difference as the only non-Japanese participant). Specifically, we were asked to explore the opposing Japanese cultural fundamentals known as "Honne" (one's true self) and "Tatemae" (the socially acceptable self), defined in full below.

After two hours of questions and an uncharacteristically candid conversation, I was surprised to learn that the expectation to present a masked self to the world is actually a relieving choice for the students of Japan and seemingly this society as a whole. The idea of facing unnecessary judgment and/or igniting confrontation is easily sidestepped by falling in line behaviorally within the comfort of an already homogeneous society.

But, what is a welcomed blessing to the Japanese is this American's worse nightmare... the loss of self-expression. The idea of not wanting to represent yourself in both public and personal settings leaves me more lost than found. Additionally, I wonder how Japan has achieved its worldly stature by willfully following? Consider that Japan is arguably (although no one would dare argue it here) the most efficient society in the world. How does this continued greatness emerge within a culture of relative meekness? I'm fascinated.

More immediately however, I'm left feeling a bit uneasy as I go about my days. I continue to observe the passersby, but I no longer wholly trust or read them as truth. My comments on observed behavior- the shyness, happiness, even the perceived compatibility may have been a mere front. But, as I slow in my skepticism and become wary of representing myself as myself, it's evident that the Japanese are moving along just fine, perfectly content peacefully playing within their masquerade.

Honne (本音): refers to a person's true feelings and desires. These may be contrary to what is expected by society or is required according to one's position and circumstance, and they are often kept hidden, except with one's closest of friends.
Tatame(建前): literally "facade", is the behavior and opinions one displays in public. Tatamae is what is expected by society and required according to one's position and circumstances, and these may not match one's honne.

Internet Stoppage, Travel, Networking and Dead Batteries

2008-07-23T18:13:00.014+09:00

After a short break the good news is Tokyo is still fantastic, better than ever.
...I wish I could say the same for our internet connection, which as of late has been inconsistent at best. I never thought I'd rely so heavily on one medium to feel connected, and never expected I'd feel so much more distant with its disappearance.

Aside from internet trials, camera issues and a handful of bike problems (breathe), I've started teaching English lessons twice a week. I've also met some very interesting people including a Translator at the Embassy of Kuwait, the Co-founder (and former GE employee) of a Tokyo Environmental Organization, www.greenz.jp and also an Oscar nominated Producer who is currently editing his next work "Happiness", happinessfilm.com while also working on various other heartfelt projects (comics, anime, you name it) surrounding human rights. I join his team next week as a Language Adviser.

Please check out the links to learn more about these compassionate individuals who are making a difference in the lives of many, and for ways to get involved yourself!

Other happenings, I've laid on my first Japanese beach, discovered a taste of Chicago in Harajuku, experienced my first Tokyo tremor, enjoyed red bean and rice chunk soy ice cream, ate my first unknown substance within a sushi roll (horrid, awful, can still taste the unidentifiable goo), fell in love with pumpkin tempura, successfully navigated Shinjuku Eki (station) and continue to enjoy my Japanese lessons, the people I'm meeting and various other adventures.

Stay tuned... more to come when internet is back up and camera batteries have been replaced!

A Week of Meals (meets Elvis)- The not so glamorous mid section

2008-07-14T16:19:00.011+09:00

I admit, the meals of the last day or two haven't been much to write about. Just some homemade soba noodles, scones, and various other makeshift meals. However, there's still much to share about the food of Japan. One of my biggest food surprises (aside from squid on sticks) was the royal treatment given to fruit here. A melon gift purchased for over $100? Welcome to Japan.
http://www.iht.com/articles/2005/11/28/features/rluxfruit.php

More often than not fruits come wrapped individually in a sort of foam netting, which is expected to keep each piece perfect, clear of all blemishes. The fruit is also incredibly large; an average size apple here is about 3-4 times that of the standard American apple. And, this apple will cost you somewhere between $5.00-7.00 a piece. Cherries are quite a treat in Japan, try a small bag for $6.00 if you can afford it. It's only through a recent gift that I was able to sample such a delicacy here at all (thanks Eiko).

After enjoying the gifted cherries and the peaches I splurged on yesterday (at $1 each, but normally closer to $3-$4), I can easily say that Japanese fruit is like no other fruit this American has ever tasted. It's so much sweeter, fresher and incredibly juicy. Lucky you if you can afford it, but I miss my $2 bag full of Granny Smith apples.

And with that...
Breakfast:
Peach Season means $3 peaches are now $1 peaches. This little guy was the juiciest peach of my life- even if this one is normal size
100 Yen (usually about 300 Yen, or $3 each)

Lunch:
A cabbage, carrot, corn and edamame salad picked up at the local Organic Lawson nearby, 350 Yen
Cold Tofu, 89 Yen from the local grocery.

Dinner:
A meal shake (hey, it's the price you pay when you want to indulge in a couple of peaches and enjoy a new culture for a few months).

And, for a glimpse into the Tokyo Rockabilly scene ever-present here, especially in parks on weekends, check-out the video below. You won't regret it!

A Week of Meals- Day Two

2008-07-12T17:16:00.026+09:00

Today is Saturday, which means a brunch adventure. The chosen destination, Caippuccino, a small Italian cafe I'd read about online which features various buckwheat pancakes, including selections with shrimp and avocado, various cheeses and nuts, honey, etc. An example of the Lunch Menu is featured to the left, unfortunately, as is often the case, specials (and usually full menus are in Japanese only)

Set Brunch #1, 24,000 Yen (for two):
Iced coffee (or hot tea)

Buckwheat pancakes + bananas, cream and caramel

And, for me:
Buckwheat pancakes (non-sweet) plus honey (a bit sweet)

Shared: Celery/Cucumber soup

Eyed: "New York Style Cupcakes", price not listed

Dinner: Skipped, due to lingering brunch food baby

Snacks:

Two Coronas sipped in a make-shift outdoor cafe (drinking in public- whether it be while walking down the street, sitting on a curb, riding on the train is legal here), 500 Yen each.

Edamame: Free with the Corona purchase

Guinness & Kilkenny Pints at one of our local Irish Pubs, 800 Yen each (a steal considering all of the other bars found serve half pints for 900 Yen). And, for a late night snack, chips and guacamole (which tasted more like doritos with guacamole- what you get when you not only order chips and guac in Tokyo, but especially when ordering such Mexican fare at an Irish bar in Tokyo), 400 Yen.

A Week of Meals- The Beginning

2008-07-10T18:45:00.025+09:00

Follow me as I enjoy (and less than enjoy) breakfasts, lunches and dinners in various locations within Tokyo for one week. A great way to get a glimpse of the culture, and to witness portion options and prices.
To keep an eye on my non-food related adventures, just keep clicking on my ever changing slide show chalked full of recent journey photos, finds and festivals.
Breakfast at home:
Cold tofu drizzled with sesame oil and scallions

Prices from yesterday's grocery trip:
88 Yen (store bought tofu)
99 Yen (scallions)
125 Yen (dressing)

Lunch:
"Set Lunch menu" Roppongi soba noodle restaurant,
1050 Yen & featuring:

-Soba noodles: a traditional buckwheat noodle served hot or cold, usually depending on the season (cold today, because it was HOT outside). Served with a dipping sauce of soy sauce, white radish and wasabi. Proper eating method: grab a chopstick full of noodles, dunk them, and slurp them up (literally, slurping is a sign that you like something here, a compliment to the chef, not at all ill- mannered).

-Sweet potato, jalapeno and shrimp tempura (top left)

-Pickled cucumber and white radish (next to soba dipping sauce)

-Octopus and cabbage mixed in a mayonnaise-type sauce (second photo, bottom right photo)

-Small bowl of sticky white rice garnished with sesame seeds, scallions and strips of a hot red pepper I can't put my finger on yet (caught in top photo, far right)

Dinner:
Although I failed to take my camera (hey this blog commitment takes some getting used to), I can still share the details:
Darjeeling Indian Restaurant, Yoyogi-Uehera (about a mile from the apartment), 1,000 Yen

-Kirin Tanrei Beer "Brewed for Good Times" (550 Yen- a total rip off)
-Salad + Naan (450 Yen)

I've also had the vegetable curry here and the saffron rice, but wasn't hungry tonight after my monstrous lunch.

Additional Note: Japan is known for exceptional Indian food and also "the best Italian food outside of Rome". Both have a Japanese twist to the traditional, but now I also recognize the American twists to these cuisines. More to come as I sample other various foods and show you first hand...

Random Cuteness from the local Tanabata Festival

2008-07-09T15:58:00.014+09:00

http://gojapan.about.com/cs/japanesefestivals/a/tanabata.htm

The fair was complete with petting zoo (chicks, goats, pony, guinea pigs), shooting carnival games, various ways to win goldfish (who knew winning a bag of goldfish was an international joy) snow cones, plenty of meat on sticks (including octopus), corn on the cob, sweet potatoes, beer, drums and a whole lot of heat and humidity.

PLAY ME (drum video below)

Courtney Desu

2008-07-07T17:55:00.008+09:00

It's so interesting to be the minority, the clear minority in a huge city thought to be over 10 million dense.

As the obvious outcast, I initially braced for varying impacts. I now feel foolish and saddened to have felt the need to brace at all. In a city where I expected to be a stand alone, it's been so easy for me to forget that I'm the one who sticks out. There's been no disrespect, I've never felt fearful, alone. There has been only warm fascination and sense of eagerness, or, at the very worst, harmless indifference.

This is why it's important to see the world, perspective.

One Hour, One Intersection, One Non-fat Latte

2008-07-03T14:52:00.022+09:00

After language class today I relaxed high above the famed intersection in Shibuya, http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0335266/, to sip a latte and snap Tokyo style photos as promised. The slide show in the upper right hand corner of this blog displays a vast array of Tokyo style caught from one spot in one hour. You can also click the link below if you prefer to scroll through the photos on your own, http://picasaweb.google.com/CannaKendall/ShibuyaFashion73.

Style notes:

knee socks- the new black

hats- hippie hats, top hats, fedoras, bonnets, baseball, they all work

sailor uniforms- does not a sailor make, try school girl uniforms (yes, really)

no natural- fake tans, dyed hair, eyeliner, plenty of makeup (sometimes classy, sometimes wishfully)

lady hair styles- two-to-ten shades lighter, cute short messy, long big curls

"manly" hair- more high maintenance than any female styles I've seen; feathered, spiky, meant-to-be-mullets (as in 45-minutes to style into mullet creation), tussled ponytails, hipster

heels- everywhere. No commuter shoes here; stacked, wedges, stilettos (on foot, on bike, the all purpose shoe... alas, I have found my place). Huzzah!

pointy toed shoes- for guys (not elves)

Harajuku girl- real people or animation? No clue.

Salaryman- black suit (seriously 99.5% of the time plain & black)

Not just another walk in the park?

2008-06-30T19:55:00.016+09:00

Okay, totally just another walk in the park, and a walk in my favorite local park at that, Yoyogi Park... the best sunny time activity (so far). After a very rainy day yesterday (14 hours or so should qualify that depiction), it was time to spend the majority of today outside. Thankfully, the weather cooperated.

While walking through the many paths and gardens, I came across a drum circle (featured in video below), which became the most enticing aspect of Yoyogi today.

After a couple of hours of walking, running and watching, it was on to downtown Shibuya, home to my new language school, http://www.we-japan.com/. Shibuya is also home to too many people, too many subway entrances (and exits) and too many McDonalds. But, it's fun to be downtown for a bit... reminds me of the all too familiar bustle of the Chicago loop. This downtown also happens to be a great place to wander through various cafes, bookstores, even the Tower Records and/or Gap for more tastes of home, when in the mood.

I realized today as I passed the people, then more people, and then the people watching the people, that Tokyo has a lot of people. Total population as of 2005 = 35,327,000! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_Tokyo_Area. What's even more interesting is that despite it's 35,327,000 residents I heard today that the average homicide rate in a US major city is 200 times more than that within Tokyo. That could have something to do with the fact that handguns are illegal here, and the hunting guns which exist have extremely stringent laws, permits and reevaluations of existing permits, http://www.davekopel.org/2A/LawRev/Japanese_Gun_Control.htm. For the record, the lack of guns, rifles or otherwise, has not deterred the amount of camouflage in Tokyo, which runs rampant (although not necessarily as we know it in the United States, http://yeinjee.com/asianpop/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/japan-vending-machine-cloth.jpg

I found a bike today. It's not the road bike I would've liked, but rather an Iraqi responding to my craigslist posting offering his bike, for rent, for three months. Perfection. He asked for 5,000 yen (about $50) for three months. I gave him 3500 and met him at Hachiko, a rather common (and apparently over-used) meeting point in Shibuya's downtown, http://www.fabuloustravel.com/globe/hachiko/hachiko.html. So tomorrow the extreme bike riding experience in Tokyo begins. There seem to be no laws to this land... only accidents, lots of swerving and a rockin' good time. A wise man once said, "no guts, no glory", right dad?

Lost in Shinjuku Station

2008-06-26T10:02:00.011+09:00

I spent nearly two hours losing my way, finding my way, and losing my way again within the Shinjuku train station at rush hour yesterday. And, of course this was the day I actually had a place to be, at a given time.

It was evident today that, at least for me, the most confusing thing about Tokyo transportation are the numerous different train lines owned by both private firms and the government, and which don't interconnect. Each has it's own name, logo, colors for various lines (which cane be the same color of another line run by another company), and all lines come together within the larger stations.

Shinjuku station is one of Tokyo's largest stations and thus, extremely busy and incredibly confusing. With thousands of people smashed together trying to get where they were going, I was running laps around the building trying to find the right color line, with the right name, and in the right direction. The picture above (which does no justice to the amount of people rushing passed in a constant stream) was sweet relief as I found a corner to catch my breath and gear up for round two of pushing my way through the people to the other end of the station.

Once found, it was off to dinner with the owners of AQ Works, http://aqworks.com/, the founder of Tokyo Art Beat, http://www.tokyoartbeat.com/tablog/entries.en/, and some of the workers therein. The owners are 30-ish artists who came to Tokyo from America, France, England, and who are doing incredibly well in the business world here; it's very inspiring to see. Check out their websites, they're known (and successful in part) for being bilingual!

Dinner. Dinner was something to write home about. It was easily the most amazing meal I've had here, and potentially the most amazing meal I've had anywhere. The restaurant was a tiny room, shared with the kitchen (with three young indie-rocker chefs crammed together), and the 7 of us dominated the entire dinning area (there was a bar which accounted for other seating- about 6 more places). The meal had been pre-ordered, and portions were split among us.

Personal portions of edamame started us off, alongside a nice, dry sake. The portions were served on plates as small as our saucers, but the courses kept coming. First was fish salad, followed by a great tofu & strawberry mixture (consistency was like a yogurt)...amazing. Then some fried corn with mineral salt, another salad (with tofu, fresh veggies, fruit, sesame seeds), vegetable stirfry, a portion of an omelet-type dish with veggies and white radish. Still more. Next up was the brown rice and a citrus miso soup (interestingly served at the end of the meal). Finally, the chef dropped off blueberry cheesecake in little cubed portions just big enough for a bite (or two). It's amazing how pleasant you feel when not over-stuffing yourself on portions. I'd say many of the items we shared four ways would equal ONE portion in America.

The train ride home was more successful than the one there, and again served as a resting place for various salarymen, some passed-out from exhaustion, others passed-out from too much to drink. A continual and extremely sad situation as recognized by this tourist...

It's rainy again today. I'm going to research language courses and venture out this afternoon using my new Tokyo Art Beats guide!

Who's the creepy girl taking photos of children? Oh yeah, me.

2008-06-24T15:37:00.012+09:00

Finally some fantastic weather! Not a cloud in the sky, and not nearly as humid as it's been. I packed up my bag at 9:30 and headed toward Ueno Park. Not only is the park beautiful, tucked away statues, water fountains, great landscape, but the park also houses a series of museums, plus the Tokyo zoo. http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3019.html

I made my way to the park through trial and error, and loved wandering around taking in the sun and scoping out the various street vendors and performers. Yes, even Tokyo has them, although the acts are a bit different. I saw a blond haired Japanese woman dressed in sort of Scarlet O'Hara garb, http://www.jamd.com/search?assettype=g&assetid=3068812&text=scarlet+o%2527hara, singing opera (and despite the language barrier, I can tell you it wasn't very good), an amazing contortionist (who was so amazing at times I couldn't watch) , and a jokester who went from juggling, hand walking and various balancing acts, to putting on skits and cracking jokes with the crowd (see him in the video below). He was my favorite, but that may have been because I was partial to his hair.

I found the zoo first, and decided I'd pay the 600 yen to enter. I saw polar bears, pandas, lions, elephants, and then also something which separated this zoo from the ones I've frequented in America, the cutest school children on earth. I've decided I may get arrested (potentially deported) as I'm caught taking all of these pictures of children here, but there's simply nothing cuter. Between the school outfits, which include shorts, knee socks, blazers and little white hats, and the various other outfits (typically of rock n roll style), who could resist? I promise to blog more on the various styles here soon... I'm trying to find a way to be inconspicuous while taking photos of passersby (yeah, that may take some time).

Onto the Tokyo National Museum, which was also cool and a nice break from the now blazing sun. Many of the paintings consisted only of Japanese characters, but their beauty and craftsmanship were very evident. There were also some gorgeous cherry tree paintings. Three of the four exhibits were free, the only one with a charge was a visiting exhibition from Paris, so I spent lots of time roaming the exhibits.

Time to relax. I found a great spot on a bench (benches, by the way, are few and far between in Tokyo) and picked up a taste of home, my book "Devil in the White City". If you haven't read it, read it. That's how my next two hours were spent, and then my 45 minutes train ride home surrounded by salarymen in tailored suits sleeping every which way you looked.

Eggs and Hotdogs, disturbing or efficient?

2008-06-23T16:03:00.016+09:00

I made two amazing discoveries today- One is obviously the picture to the left, which I'll get to in a moment. The other is the realization that my washing machine duals as a dryer! HUH?! Yes, that's right, one tiny machine fulfulling the role of two. We lose.

To bring this entry full circle, the finds of today have lead me to the same resolve. The picture above (let's focus on the hotdog PLUS eggs as our running example), which admittedly I had originally posted in horror, could simply be just another testament to Japanese efficiency- breakfast and lunch in one. Who looks foolish now as we splurge on our scrambled egg breakfasts and then our hotdog lunches, and as we wash our clothes in one monster machine and then transfer them into another one to dry?

Okay, so the hotdog + eggs may be pushing it (same goes for the other two featured creations), but the washer/dryer combo is fanstastical.

http://www.repp.org/repp_pubs/articles/issuebr14/06Japan.htm

Your Imperialness

2008-06-22T14:19:00.011+09:00

We set out early today, as the forecast predicted rain in the late afternoon (they were right by the way, which is why I'm home at 2:26pm prematurely typing this entry).

We happened upon a Buddhist temple, bustling with Sunday attendees in traditional garb. Notably, the elderly women (dressed in traditional kimono and platform sandals) hiked up several daunting filghts of stairs on their own to access the worship area. It's no wonder the Japanese are known for living long, full lives...

The landscape was beautiful, and led us to a cemetery behind the garden. It was here where we found our first Japanese strays (cats that is), both sitting on gravestone ledges as if keeping watch.

Game on, we were ready for more of a traditionalist day, off to the Imperial Palace, http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3017.html

The entrance itself had a medieval feel with a moat separating the entrance from the rest of the downtown. Upon crossing into the palace area you find yourself in a lush park, lined with trees and stretches of the most well kept grass I've seen. It's the Tokyo equivalent of Central Park, wide open green space with skyscrapers peering in from all around. The Emperor (once considered a God) graces the people's presence only twice yearly- New Years and his Birthday in December. Maybe another leader should take a hint?http://www.525reasons.com/archives/cat_ignorance_and_oafishness.html

Bangkok cuisine was for lunch. Japanese offer many set-priced lunches, which tend to range from 800 to 3,000 Yen per person ($8 - $30). Many of the $aver tips recommend you eat your biggest meal at lunch, as this is bound to be the cheapest find of the day. Our particular lunch consisted of three courses and was set at $13. There were an assortment of appetizer tastes; two different seafood fresh rolls, a small salad and a crab something yummy. For my main course I picked a seafood noodle dish, which was quite wonderful, especially with the addition of a spicy pepper sauce. Dessert was an amazing espresso and a tapioca coconut concoction which was much too much for this girl. Overall, just the meal I needed after some previous poor choices. Tipping, by the way, isn't customary in Japan, so factor that into the $13, three course meal and we have ourselves a winner! http://www.kirainet.com/english/no-tipping-in-japan/.

Today, I sheepishly report, I experienced my first traditional Japanese bathroom, radio playing from the toilet, bidet and all. It's very alarming to see so many buttons attached to a toilet, and even more alarming not being able to read which ones turn things off, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toilets_in_Japan. And that's all I'll say about that.

The rain continues... looks like the rest of this Sunday may happen indoors.

Day Two, Muggy-licious

2008-06-21T12:31:00.008+09:00

It's muggy, again. It rained overnight and through 5am this morning, I know because I was once again awake by 4am. The rain did little to cool things off or clear the clouds, but the cover is welcome at this point.

Today it was off to downtown Shibuya, a 20 minute walk from our apartment. The walk is beautiful, as a portion of it follows along the outline of Yoyogi Park, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoyogi_Park. My park exploration will begin while I'm on my own this week.

Shibuya is much like Shinjuku, although refreshingly a bit less neonic. Shibuya contains both the intersection and Park Hyatt hotel made famous by the movie Lost in Translation. Clearly, this is where my karaoke singing needs to begin.

Two of Tokyo's more renowned Department Stores are found here. Japanese department stores offer 5-8 stories full of shopping, restaurants, and a bottom level which typically serves as a food market. We're told this is one of the cheapest place to grocery shop, although there's nothing else cheap about it. Clothing has a huge mark-up from the States, with styles closely resembling those found in both NYC and Chicago. Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Coach and Hermes are a few of the luxury stores featured in these department stores, and are also much more expensive (if you can imagine) than prices in the US.

American influence is prevalent here too (in addition to the aforementioned style similarities). We passed an Outback Steakhouse, multiple McDonald's (the monster burger pictured is courtesy of a McDonald's creation), Wendy's, and bars such as Alcatraz- where you can be cuffed and lead to your drinking cell. 80's and 90's music, along with various classic rock plays in the majority of boutiques as well.

Lunch today was one of the best grapefruits I've ever had- an amazing mix of sweet and sour, a meal shake from home ($ saver) and a green tea. I hope to find a great sushi place (finally) for dinner, although that could be co$tly. Last night was some amazing Indian curry a block or so away from our apartment.

Two leads on intensive Japanese language classes, both are relatively cheap and should be an ideal place to meet various travelers in similar situations.

Tomorrow- Pachinko? http://www.mikesblender.com/indexblog56.htm

Things I miss (already): cereal, Granny Smith apples, English speakers. Thank God for the streaming NPR playing Wait! Wait! Don't tell me in the background as I type.

Day One, Part II, Holy Neon

2008-06-21T08:14:00.004+09:00

It's still muggy and looks like rain. June is supposed to be Japan's rainy season, although we're told this year the rain began in late April. http://www.climatecrisis.net/thescience/
Time for lunch and cell phone acquisition.

I decided on a 24 hour restaurant, which seemed to offer quick, local cuisine at a great price. I should have, however, better predicted the quality once we were instructed to purchase food tickets based on an array of pictures scattered across vending machines near the entrance. The choices were categorized by meat- pork, beef and chicken, and all items featured miso soup and a side of egg (in shell) which appeared to be completely raw. Prices ranged from 160 - 600 yen ($1.60 - $6.00 roughly). Once tickets were purchased, the waitress walked 5 feet to the kitchen and promptly microwaved our food in plain site. Three or so minutes later and the exact replica of the plastic vending machine picture sat before us in alleged edible fashion. Interesting to eliminate the ordering process by introducing the vending machine + tickets, but you lost me at microwave.

Vending machines in general are huge here. They line every street, typically in groups of two and sell anything from cigarettes ($3 per pack in Japan) to an array of tea (black, oolong, green) and canned coffees. I will more than likely stick to vending machine liquids from here forward.

Off to Shinjuku for cell phones.

Shinjuku is the equivalent of Time Square, but with 100 times as much neon, and without the homeless people and the naked cowboy strumming his guitar, http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=Z79EI_XiOq4. The sidewalks and streets are packed with people, advertisements flash in neon, occupy video screens and splatter billboards everywhere, and you can spot Starbucks, Doutor and other cafes on every corner.

At 9:45, cell phones finally in hand, we found ourselves surrounded by "salarymen" who were just leaving the office. Salarymen have been named as such due to their incredibly exhausting work schedules, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salaryman. Once released from work (weekdays included), it's customary for salarymen to head directly to a bar with coworkers to dine on appetizer foods and drown their sorrows. It's believed, actually, that alcoholism is a huge problem in Japan due to such routines, but the disease is never (and may never be) acknowledged. Trains full of vomit, passed out drunks in tailored Italian suits, and those remaining conscious (now babbling uncontrollably) characterize just another night here in Tokyo.
10:06 local time, and time for bed. This Kendall, by the way, totally Kendall-ed through jet lag.

Day One, Part I: Barack, Meet Shibuya

2008-06-21T08:10:00.007+09:00

I'm writing as I wait for our baggage delivery service to arrive with all of our luggage. It was $60.00 to have it delivered from the airport, which included Ryan's bike, so that was a relief (sites online said it would likely be $250+). Airport baggage delivery services exist due to the incredibly busy transit systems here. there's barely room for passengers to fit inside trains, let alone luggage. Unfortunately, since we do not yet have cell phones, we'll be stuck in our apartment until the goods arrive, although, they did promise sometime this morning.

Breakfast is often the only meal the Japanese do not eat out regularly, so it tends to be very expensive. Since I survived the trek from Houston to Tokyo on meal bars (Continental airlines served a lot of food on the flight yesterday, but it was so unhealthy- microwave pizzas, Haagen Dazs ice cream, fried chicken, cookie after cookie), I was definitely ready for some FOOD food, expensive or not. I found a coffee shop on our now familiar strip called Doutor and was able to successfully order via my newly adopted order-by-point method. Thank god for the plastic food models everywhere! The service people are really friendly, lots of smiles and some have even bravely tested a bit of their English on us. Still, it's a bit daunting to not understand the majority of what is being said to you... especially when prices aren't always posted. The helpful barista this morning did take time to show me the menu characters for ice coffee, so hopefully next time I can be a little bit more inconspicuous by pointing to the menu versus smiling and pointing to the plastic model of iced coffee hanging from the ceiling. Read about typical Tokyo cafes here: http://www.photopassjapan.com/travelguide_tokyo_cafe.html

Time for food.

While carrying my coffee to go in a bag (it's considered impolite to eat while on the move, and I'm not yet sure whether the same goes for drinking), I headed across the street to a bakery lined with businessmen. I found a couple of interesting puffs, and more familiar donuts and scone-looking items, but also found what appear to be breakfast hotdogs- long wieners in a biscuit type bun with dried ketchup already woven across. They even had hotdogs in a doughier substance which seemed to be a doughnut of some kind. For the record, I expect to stay away from the breakfast hot dog.

I continued walking and found a nearby market, much like a convenience store. I also passed a fresh fruit store, but it wasn't yet open. The market I ventured in was full of kit-kats, coke (Coke Zero is huge here), teas, etc. There were also plenty of 7-11 type displays in the front with rotating meat on sticks (no taquitos here). All three of the people in line before me ordered these meat sticks for their breakfast. I managed to find something I deemed to be yogurt, and orange juice and headed back home.

Unfortunately, home is a bit disappointing. Although our apartment is much larger than the other options we had, you'd think $2k a month would get you something relatively nice. Our building overlooks a major road (currently under construction to boot). The noise hasn't been so bad, but the flashing lights are a bit obnoxious from our living area. The apartment itself is on the ground level, which takes away the appeal of the balcony we were promised; instead we have a sliding door and a standing pit out front. It's otherwise rather trailer-like. The ceiling and many of the walls seem to be made out of a plastic, the bathroom is tiny and a bit scary (the tub is a hilarious size... super deep, but SO short). But, on a positive note, the air conditioning works well (it's extremely muggy here today), and the location is great.

I've read Tokyo residents are known for being rather cold. They tend to go about their business without much interaction, which may be due to many of their exhausting work schedules, a typical work day here is from 7am - nearly 9pm. The depiction seems to be true so far; the only friendly encounters I've experienced have occurred while being waited on. Otherwise my smiles have gone unreturned. Eye contact is also considered to be confrontational, so many people walk with their eyes fixed on the ground. I did, however, manage to get looks today as I wandered around in my lavender Barack Obama shirt. Even a smile from the only other Caucasian I've seen since arrival. Talk about a homogeneous Country!

The trains are amazing... so clean, so quiet! All the buses here actually run on time too, so Japanese efficiency is already noticeable. My new train card is the picture attached to this blog. A 500 yen deposit, and then you can load as much as you'd like in order to get around with ease.

Back to my yogurt and ice coffee (which, by the way, is VERY good).